Eight food businesses, four sit-down restaurants, one running argument, and more reasons to stay for dinner than the village's reputation suggests.

The locals' version of what the break is, what to expect, and what to respect. Honest enthusiasm and honest danger, treated as parts of the same picture.

Why the sunsets here are world-class — what makes them specifically distinctive, where to stand, when to arrive, and what the locals know that the day-trippers don't.